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Laos, Peaceful and Surprising

Laos, April 2017

We had a wonderful trip in Laos some weeks ago. After some researches, we found that spending our 10 days of holidays in Laos instead of a combination of Vietnam/Laos would be far worth it, as Laos is a big country and, unfortunately, a quite poor one = without many fast and easy way to travel from one city to another.

 

Putaxai

Le Banneton’s brunch

Set of Lao specialties

Chicken laap

Ventiane

The capital Ventiane was fine but there is not really much to visit except a lovely and renowned French bakery (with amazing croissant #vivelafrance) and the Buddha Park, a sculpture park crowded with more than 200 Buddhist and Hindu statues (mostly bizarre in design!). A thing to do is also to go to see their local ‘Arc de triomphe’ or ‘Putaxai’. Get there by bike and ride by a small market – which is the biggest in the city – Talat Sao to get some local clothes. If you are not too hot, go to the Lao National Museum and the Lao National Culture Hall. With the night coming, treat yourself with some local culinary specialties such as Sai Kok (pork sausages) or a grilled fish from the Mekong River, and of course eat some chicken laap – a spicy mixture of marinated meat or fish that is sometimes spicy mixture of marinated meat or fish that is sometimes raw with a variable combination of herbs, greens and spices.

French bakery (8/10): Le Banneton, Nokeokoumane street BP 568 Ban Mixay

Buddha Park (9/10): Thanon Tha Deua

Putaxai (4/10): Ave Lane Xang

Restaurant with laab (8/10): Lao Kitchen – Hengboun street | opposite KP Hotel, Vientiane -count around 40,000 KIP for a chicken laap

“Bombies”

We visited the COPE association which deals with victims of bombs in Laos and explains the sad story. We were not aware but Laos was bombed by the US between 1964 and 1973 as part of a ‘secret war’ aiming to block Vietnam’s supply lines in the south of Laos. 2 million tons of explosive rained down for 9 years, representing one of the heaviest aerial bombardments in history. As an estimation of the disastrous thing, it represents a bomb been launched every hour for 7 years. To this day, less than 1 % of unexploded bombs remaining has been removed, causing every year many victims.

We also tried a lovely restaurant with a Mekong view where the food was good. Chill atmosphere as a band was playing in the back, and small #lanterns gave a romantic touch to the atmosphere.

COPE (8/10): free entrance – Khou Vieng Road, opposite Green Park Hotel

Restaurant with Mekong view (7/10): Kong View – 183 Souphanouvong Avenue, Vientiane 0100, Laos – Tip: try a Mekong fish to fit the dinner’s mood

Friends’ serie playing

Blue Lagoon

Vang Vieng

We went to Vang Vieng by a day bus (around 4 to 5 hours) as it is one of the most convenient ways to go there. It was very hot and we were relieved to finally find our clean hostel with a nice Finish receptionist (?!…). Even if the town is renowned for #partyhard, tubing and other illegal kinds of stuff, things are going better and calmer since 2012 after the government breakdown following some unfortunate deaths. There is/are only 1 or 2 main streets with bars and restaurants, the rest of the town hosting many hostels and tours shops.

Our first day was calm and we enjoyed some laap (again for me) in a restaurant where TVs showcasing some old episodes of the Friends’ serie (#coolatmosphere). On the second day, we rented a buggy car and rode to the rice fields, exploring some caved and having fun in the Blue Lagoon, in a very stylish way as you can see on the pictures. I definitively recommend taking this car, as you are protected by the sun and you can share the discovery of the landscape with your co-driver (and just admit it: it is very unusual and fun!). Enjoy fresh apple cider and pool games in Gary’s Irish Bar and dance until dawn at Sakura Bar the night club just opposite.

Gary’s Irish Bar (7/10): Ban Savang, Vang Vieng 

Sakura Bar (8/10): Main Street, Vang Vieng

The Blue Lagoon (8/10): 10,000 KIP per person

We did the main attraction on the 3rd day: tubing! Concept is simple: put yourself on a tube at the top of the river and let yourself drift away on the Namsong river. Stop at some bars along the way which will throw you a rope to bring you back to their shore and let you buy some beers and play a game of tennis table or water basket-ball. The whole trip down to the river took us more than 3 hours, we met many cool ‘tubers’ on our way and some fishermen, kayaks that slashed us from their typical and old fishing boat. Great fun and beautiful views!

The other must-do attraction in Vang Vieng is definitely the hot air balloon to enjoy the beautiful landscape of Lao. I must admit it was quite scared when you are at 9,000 meters high, only suspended by this huge balloon with fire to make it fly (and it was also quite hot with flames close to your head)! But the staff was very pro and nice and it was great. I absolutely recommend you do it! After this adventure, try ‘Le Café de Paris’ if you want to enjoy some good French #pastis.

Hot air balloon ride (10/10): +856 20 96 918 111 – Be careful as it is not available during the rainy season.

Café de Paris (7/10): Hospital street, Ban Vieng Kheo, Vang Vieng

Night market

Rice for Monks

Utopia bar

Luang Prabang

For me, Luang Prabang is like Chiang Mai in Thailand: quiet, clean, beautiful, with lovely people (many spoke French). Visit the numerous Wat, and follow the riverside for a calm walk. Eat something fresh (or a #croissant) at the other branch of ‘Le Banneton Cafe’. After this cultural walk, head up to the famous ‘Utopia’ to enjoy a fresh gin tonic or take a #yoga course in front of the Mekong.  For dinner, be adventurous and try the night market with cheap formulas of grilled brochettes for less than US$10. We met two Australian guys on a cycling trip and had dinner with them, lot of fun. For dessert, try the Lao pancake (very oily) with #Nutella.

Bamboo bridge

Mont Phousi

La Pistoche

Lao BBQ at ‘Dyaen Sabai’

Next day was so hot that we decided to go to ‘La Pistoche’, a big swimming pool complex in the heart of the city where you can cool down and have some refreshing drinks at the bar in the water. We met two #Swiss guys there – including one living in Luang Prabang that explained us some stories about living in Laos. One of the guy has created with his wife a charity association for Lao people – it is great and we even had the opportunity to go to see one of his projects the next day (a restaurant to hire Lao people). We’ve been to see the small bamboo bridge, re-built every year once the rainy season is over. For your dinner, try ‘Dyen Sabai’ restaurant (same owner as La Pistoche) and go for a Lao BBQ – which I highly recommend on the #terrace overhanging the Mekong river.

La Pistoche (9/10): entrance fee of 30,000 KIP – Ban Phong Pheng Village, Luang Prabang

Dyen Sabai (8/10): Ban Phan Louang, PO Box 805, Luang Prabang

The association of the people we met: L’ASAS – gave hope that many good people still exist! Have a look at their beautiful projects

Last day was dedicated to climbing up the Mount Phousi, where you can get a good view of the city and take some good pictures of Buddhas. There is a lot of stairs, so be patient! Lastly, we’ve been to the Kuang Si Waterfall, enjoying a refreshing #bath and watching some baby bears in the protection center at the beginning of the park. If you have time, get up early in the morning to watch the daily monks procession and alms giving ceremony (you can even buy some sticky rice at the market to give to he monks) and please be #respectful as many people think it is only a tourist attraction when it is definitely a religious moment.

Mount Phousi (6/10): between Thanon Sisavangvong and Thanon Phousi

Kuang Si waterfalls: take a tuk tuk to get there and negotiated for around 30,000 KIP per person

A beautiful country, unfortunately unknown, with many things to do. Only drawback: massages are not as good as I wished them to be… but for a refreshing and calm spiritual retreat (except in Vang Vieng) it is definitely the place to go!

 

Did you like this page and my trip’s recommendations? Do you want more information about them? I’ll be happy to receive any comment from you!

 

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